Varanasi Travel Guide: Ghats, Ganga Aarti, Kashi Vishwanath, Sarnath, Boat Rides, Food and Etiquette

Varanasi, also called Kashi or Banaras, is among the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and the spiritual heart of Hinduism. Pilgrims bathe in the Ganga, perform rituals and cremate their dead on the ghats, while visitors come for the atmosphere, music, food and silk. It can be intense, so go in with respect, patience and some planning.

Opening hours, prices, permits and transport timings change. Confirm them with official sources or operators before you travel.

Best time to visit

October to March is the best, with cool, comfortable weather. Dev Deepawali, the festival of lights on Kartik Purnima in November, is spectacular, when lakhs of lamps light the ghats, but accommodation fills up months ahead. Summers are very hot, and the monsoon raises the river and can submerge lower ghats and close boat services.

The ghats

Around 80 ghats line the western bank of the Ganga for about six kilometres. Highlights are:

• Dashashwamedh Ghat: the main ghat, famous for the nightly Ganga Aarti.
• Assi Ghat: at the southern end, with morning yoga, music and cafes.
• Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats: the cremation ghats. Observe silently and from a distance, and never photograph cremations.
• Panchganga, Kedar and Tulsi Ghats have temples and a calm atmosphere.

Ganga Aarti

The evening aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat begins around sunset, with priests performing a synchronised ritual with lamps, incense, conch shells and chanting. Arrive early for a good place on the steps or take a boat to watch from the river. Smaller aartis at Assi Ghat are quieter. Keep your belongings secure in the crowd.

Sunrise boat ride

A dawn boat ride along the ghats is the most memorable experience. Agree on the price and duration before boarding, preferably through your hotel or at a fixed-rate booth, and avoid last-minute offers from touts. Rowing boats are slower and quieter than motorised ones. Do not litter, and avoid entering the river if water levels are high or the currents strong.

Temples and sacred sites

• Kashi Vishwanath Temple: one of the twelve Jyotirlingas, now connected to the river through the Kashi Vishwanath Corridor. Security is strict, and bags, phones and cameras are not allowed inside. Book darshan slots online where available, and check dress and timing rules.
• Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple and Durga Temple are popular.
• Bharat Mata Temple, Tulsi Manas Temple and Kal Bhairav Temple have their own stories.
• Banaras Hindu University (BHU) campus, with the Vishwanath temple and museum, is a peaceful stop.

Sarnath

About 10 kilometres away, Sarnath is where the Buddha gave his first sermon. See the Dhamek Stupa, the ruins of the monastery, the Archaeological Museum with the Ashoka lion capital (India's national emblem), the Mulagandha Kuti Vihar and the Chaukhandi Stupa. Allow half a day.

Food

• Kachori sabzi and jalebi for breakfast, and lassi in clay cups.
• Banarasi chaat: tamatar chaat, aloo tikki, golgappa and baati chokha.
• Malaiyo (in winter), a saffron-scented milk foam, and thandai, especially around Holi. Be aware that some thandai contains bhang (cannabis), which is dangerous for visitors who do not know.
• Banarasi paan is an experience. Choose sweet paan if you are unsure.
• The city has plenty of vegetarian food. Many places near temples serve only vegetarian meals.

Banarasi silk and shopping

Banarasi sarees, brocades and dupattas are woven with gold and silver zari. Buy from reputed shops or cooperative stores, ask about silk and zari authenticity (look for the Silk Mark label), and compare prices. Weaver visits in Sarai Mohana or Lallapura can be educational, but beware of guides who earn commissions. Other crafts include wooden toys, glass beads and brassware. Plan your budget with the travel budget planner.

How to reach

• By air: Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport is about 25 kilometres from the city.
• By train: Varanasi Junction (Cantt) and Banaras station are well connected with Delhi, Kolkata, Lucknow and Prayagraj, including fast Vande Bharat and other express services. Book early via IRCTC.
• By road: expressways link Varanasi with Lucknow, Prayagraj and Gorakhpur.

Etiquette and safety

• Dress modestly, especially in temples, and remove shoes where required.
• Ask before photographing people or rituals. Never photograph cremations.
• Be careful with touts who offer fake "priest" services, expensive puja packages or boat rides at inflated rates. Agree on prices in advance. See scam awareness.
• Lanes are narrow and busy, with cows, bikes and crowds, so walk carefully.
• Drink bottled water. Avoid bathing in the river if water quality is a concern. See water safety.
• Keep valuables safe and use official guides and registered hotels.

Itinerary: 2 to 3 days

1. Day 1: afternoon walk through the old lanes, Kashi Vishwanath darshan, evening Ganga Aarti.
2. Day 2: sunrise boat ride, breakfast of kachori and jalebi, BHU and Sankat Mochan, sarees and silk shopping, evening at Assi Ghat.
3. Day 3: Sarnath in the morning, then onward to Prayagraj, Ayodhya or Lucknow. See Ayodhya guide and top destinations in India.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best time to visit Varanasi?

October to March, with Dev Deepawali in November being spectacular but busy.

How many days do I need?

Two to three days, including Sarnath.

Can I take photos at the cremation ghats?

No, photographing cremations is disrespectful and prohibited.

Are phones allowed inside Kashi Vishwanath Temple?

Typically not, so check the current rules and use lockers.

How do I avoid scams?

Agree on boat and puja prices in advance and use registered guides and hotels.

Is Varanasi vegetarian?

Most food near temples is vegetarian, and meat is restricted in the old areas.

Last reviewed 8 November 2026. Rates, limits and rules change, so confirm figures with the official source before you act.